gardening
Let lush growth lean in So secluded does this garden feel that you’d never guess the lush, tropical space – designed by its owner, architect Simon Hurst – is at the back of a small 1930s terrace in the city. The lush planting helps to create a secluded atmosphere. “I like a somewhat jungly feel, with plants growing into or through each other,” says Hurst. To add to the effect, having a circular patio means the greenery goes almost right around to envelop the dining area. Hurst also created different zones and paths throughout the space. “It’s broken up into a large cobbled central circle with diagonal paths in York stone slabs. These lead to different zones and give a false sense of perspective,” he says.
When interior designer Beth Dadswell of Imperfect Interiors and her husband first saw the Victorian dairy that would become their home, it was derelict, but the couple could immediately see its potential. “I was really excited when I saw the huge open courtyard at the front of the building,” says Dadswell. “It had incredible steel girders that were covered in jasmine. It was like an industrial, urban version of Miss Havisham’s house,” she says, referring to the rambling home of one of Charles Dickens’ characters. But as the site was surrounded by neighbouring gardens on every boundary, careful thought was put into how to make it feel secluded. “We constructed privacy screens out of rusted metal that we positioned on top of the brick walls, then planted climbers to work their way up the metal girders to create drama. We also planted trees and plants in huge black oil drums to bring in height,” says Dadswell. “We’re a short walk from the high street, but all you can hear in the courtyard are birds singing. It’s really special.”
Create a quiet space Whether you have particularly lively neighbours or live next to a busy transport route, noise that filters in from outside your garden can kill the sense of tranquillity you may otherwise have created. Good garden designers will, of course, talk through the issues you want to resolve in your outside space and address them. This is precisely what Tom Howard did with the owners of this (now) peaceful spot in south London, UK. “The garden has a noisy railway line right behind the back of it,” says Howard. So he built a high fence. “We stained it darker to lose it slightly and planted a yew hedge in front,” he says. “This will grow to around four metres high, which will help to reduce the noise of the trains and provide a green backdrop.”
. Embrace sentimentality by alluding to a bygone era There is arguably no period in history that conjures up feelings of romance like the Victorian era. Incorporating a few lace-trimmed accent pieces is a sure way to spark that romantic spirit. Tip: Arches, urns, amphorae and even subtly placed statues can all add to the aesthetic of a bygone era.
When neighbours are very close to the boundary, as in this Perth garden in WA, hanging plants and other decorative pieces can create a layered screening effect. A climbing plant trained horizontally along the wooden archway adds another layer to the screen. The great thing about this idea is that it lets light penetrate while ensuring the garden still has a sense of privacy and seclusion.
. Water regularly Regular, consistent water is the key to keeping container-grown tomatoes happy. Water about twice a week (or more where summers are hot and dry), aiming to keep the soil consistently moist but not too wet. Too little water will produce weak and unhealthy plants that are more susceptible to diseases. Too much water can cause the roots to rot and the tomatoes to split. Avoid getting water on the plant’s leaves, which can lead to tomato blight and fungus. Setting up a drip-irrigation system is the easiest way to make sure your tomato plants get the consistent moisture they need – and will put your mind at ease if you go away for a week. by Chris Snook Chris Snook 6. Fertilise plants Tomato plants are moderate feeders. Since containers have limited soil and nutrient reserves, plan to fertilise tomatoes about once every other week during the early growing period, then taper off once tomatoes begin to ripen. Use a well-balanced fertiliser formulated for tomatoes and other summer crops (organic fish emulsion is great if you don’t mind the smell). Avoid high-nitrogen fertilisers that can promote thick stalk and leaf growth, rather than signalling to plants to set tom...
Steve Masley Consulting and Design 4. Add a growing support Almost all tomato plants need support to grow – with the exception of small determinate or bush varieties. Although your just-planted baby tomato plant doesn’t look as if it will need staking anytime soon, get your support in place now in order to avoid trying to wrestle a full-grown tomato plant into a cage later. If you’re using bamboo or other wooden stakes, put one stake in the soil at the centre of the plant and an optional three or four stakes around the edges of the pot to help support future lateral branches. Later on, you can loop string around the outer stakes to form a loose cage. If you’ve purchased tomato cages, get them in place now with the tomato plant at the centre. Plant ties can be useful for fastening the main stem and thick lateral branches to whatever type of trellis you’ve chosen to use.
decordemon This technique (called deep planting) triggers the plant to form roots along the stem below the soil level, promoting a strong, healthy root system for the tomato plant. A system of healthy roots equals stronger plants and more tomatoes. Once you have the height of the seedling set, backfill the container with fresh potting mix, leaving two sets of two leaves exposed above the soil level. Water in well after planting with a seaweed solution.
Steve Masley Consulting and Design 3. Plant your tomatoes deep Select your container and place it in the sunny spot you’ve chosen. Fill roughly the bottom half of the container with fresh potting mix and any soil amendments you’d like, such as compost, kelp meal, bone meal or slow-release fertiliser pellets. Then place your tomato seedling on the centre of the mound of potting mix. Adjust the height of the potting mix so only two sets of two leaves on your tomato plant will be exposed above the soil level once the pot is filled to the top.
You can get away with a slightly smaller pot if you choose a determinate tomato variety, which stops growing at a certain height. Determinate tomatoes form smaller, bushier plants than indeterminate varieties, so need less soil and less staking to support their growth. Many tomatoes, including most heirlooms, are indeterminate and keep growing, reaching 1.8 metres or taller. For indeterminate tomatoes, choose the largest pots you can find. If you’re planting multiple tomatoes in pots, leave space between containers to help with air circulation. Tip: Different tomato varieties require different spacing, so consult the seed packet or tag on your tomato plant for information.
2. Choose a large container In general, you want to choose the largest container you can get your hands on. Tomatoes grow on giant, rambling, shrubby vines and need enough soil to support their growth. Plus, larger containers with deeper soil reservoirs are slower to dry out, giving you more of a buffer with your watering. Select a container that has a soil depth of at least 24 centimetres – ideally with more than 60 centimetres of soil – or a total soil volume of about 75 litres. Galvanised-metal water troughs can make excellent vessels for growing tomatoes, as do wine barrels. As with any container, make sure there are drainage holes before planting, and drill them yourself if necessary. Tip: When using metal containers, including feed troughs, avoid placing them in baking-heat settings or on asphalt, which can cause roots to burn.
1. Pick a sunny spot Tomato plants thrive – and produce more tomatoes – when they’re in a spot that receives at least six hours, but better yet eight hours, of direct sunlight. This applies to growing tomatoes in pots or in the ground. It’s easy to overestimate how much sun a spot in your garden or on your balcony receives. To gauge whether it’s a good spot for growing a tomato, head outside in the morning, midday and afternoon, and see how much sun an area receives. Shoot for six to eight hours of direct sun. Although daylight hours increase in the summer, the path the sun makes through the sky also changes, creating slightly different sun and shade patterns in your yard. If you’re growing tomatoes in a walled courtyard or next to a fence, you may need to adjust the position of your potted tomatoes as the season goes on in order to maximise sun.
1. Pick a sunny spot Tomato plants thrive – and produce more tomatoes – when they’re in a spot that receives at least six hours, but better yet eight hours, of direct sunlight. This applies to growing tomatoes in pots or in the ground. It’s easy to overestimate how much sun a spot in your garden or on your balcony receives. To gauge whether it’s a good spot for growing a tomato, head outside in the morning, midday and afternoon, and see how much sun an area receives. Shoot for six to eight hours of direct sun. Although daylight hours increase in the summer, the path the sun makes through the sky also changes, creating slightly different sun and shade patterns in your yard. If you’re growing tomatoes in a walled courtyard or next to a fence, you may need to adjust the position of your potted tomatoes as the season goes on in order to maximise sun.
1. Landscape planning Xeriscaping is a form of landscaping that offers especially efficient water management. Those planning a new garden can have a discernable influence on its water needs, particularly through the selection and allocation of plants. Areas with uncovered, open ground should be avoided, because they allow significantly more evaporation to take place than planted areas: fields of perennials require less water than lawn. Mulching and planting around trees is useful, and the sweeping canopies of large, drought-tolerant trees likewise protect the beds underneath from drying out. In an existing garden, it is best to have a professional take stock and review the drought-tolerance and water use of various areas of the garden. Updating an existing garden as a whole or in part makes it possible to at least optimise its water consumption.
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