Here are the dimensions of my stairs as promised!!

If you want to use the space for your cars without worry every time you drive, or walk in or out the door with a car so close to the stair, or sliding by the stair/car carrying things, your only option is looking at the interior of the house. Weigh the complication and trouble to parking outside, or with the cost of repairing your car and jamb. It may be only reframing the floor, or capturing some of the porch, or combining it with a future rework of the Kitchen, etc. Just guessing because the pictures don't show much.

Patch the drywall and get a better extension that actually lines up with the hood's chimney duct cover.

eta: Since you have ducting inside and are not recirculating you*should not* need those upper vents exposed. Check the manual to be sure.

Drywall patch - then it will look like the hole was cut to the proper size (just as it was with the older hood).

A tray ceiling smaller than the island would look silly.

Ditch the tray ceiling altogether.

The tray ceiling is probably not helping the lighting for the island, and making it smaller by a foot and not the same footprint probably exacerbates that situation.

"The shower is on the right of the entry door and I can't relocate it, so it is the first thing guests see. I feel like clear shower doors are for more private spaces"

Is the shower open to the guest bedroom? Or is the shower open to the house entry door?

We lived in a trailer the summer before I started school; it was while our house was being renovated. That's where I first encountered a glass shower door. Even as a child, I remember thinking, "Who thought this was a good idea?"

Shower curtains all the way:

- Glass doors are so difficult to keep clean, whereas a shower curtain (with the easy type of hooks) pops off in about a minute and goes in the wash with a couple towels.

- Shower curtains bring in color, pattern and texture, which are needed in most bathrooms.

- Shower curtains open "all the way" and never block access to a towel bar /never cause trouble for an elderly person who needs assistance in the shower.

- Shower curtains hide your ugly shampoo bottles and more.

- It's easier to teach a child to use a shower curtain properly than to get him to squeegie a shower after every use. I'm not even willing to do that.

However, here's a disclaimer:

- I'm not suggesting a twenty dollar 72x72" shower curtain from Amazon. That's probably what the naysayers are thinking of, and -- yes -- those are appropriate for college dorms or summer camp bath houses.

- I am suggesting a floor-to-ceiling custom-made shower curtain -- and, like all nice drapes, it should be lined. Such a curtain looks elegant and polished. Significantly better than a glass door, especially when the glass door is never going to be really clean.

- I am also suggesting that a good shower curtain should have small weights sewn in along the hem so that it will drape /hang nicely and will not move around during your shower.

- I am also suggesting that the curtain be hung properly: I'd lean towards hanging it on a ceiling-mounted track, but very nice shower bars exist.

If it is a shower/tub combo, my vote is for a curtain every time. We were living in a temporary situation with our only bathroom as a tub/shower with glass door and our adult daughter came to visit. She broke her leg while visiting. Did I mention we were at the beach? We were, she broke it while in the ocean. We had to try to clean all of the sand off of her after the ER visit while her entire leg was in a brace we weren’t supposed to remove. I can tell you it would have been easier to remove the glass doors than it was for her husband and me to help her bathe with those stupid sliding doors in the way.

Has construction started?

You first have to work on the "bones" of the house, to make sure your Kitchen will be designed with the house as a whole. The rest of the house does affect the Kitchen:

• The first thing that stands out, that you realized too, is the dead space between the proposed Kitchen and Dining. I would add that the width of the Dining is overly aggressive for the house - it is wider than the Living Room - and is what is contributing to that dead space, because it makes the Kitchen oriented left-to-right. So, in a future scheme, say you made that "sliver of the house" skinnier, that would make the Kitchen more oriented up-to-down and extend it towards the Dining.
• As chispa noted, you need to lay out furniture in the Living Room and determine if any walls are focus walls. That could affect the wall separating it from the Kitchen. Note orient furniture to how you prefer with the vault, and consider circulation for the exterior door and pathway through/around the room.
• The Flex Room has direct open physical and visual access to the heart of the Kitchen. What exactly will this be, with the odd shape and small size, yet to remain open to Kitchen? Should that connection be celebrated rather than just to pass through an unassigned or dead space?
• The backhouse area (Powder, Mudroom, and Stair) seems to be related too. First, the Powder is very close to Dining and visually accessible to Living/Dining/Kitchen when it doesn't need to be. The Stair, which might be a heavier-traveled function, is accessed too far away. The Garage, which has ample storage room, has opportunity to steal some space by a variated shape. So, in a future scheme, say the Stair/Powder/Mud/Garage was manipulated and there could be room for a walk-in Pantry and storage for things other than coats/shoes.
• I see this plan is fixated on perfectly symmetrical portions of the front elevation, with what appears to be 2 main gable fronts. That is just a choice, but what it does is makes the middle connecting "sliver" (the Kitchen/Dining) more important so it doesn't get lost. I would suggest that a 3D model is created to see how far back the Kitchen wall is read in the entire massing, considering the front porch roof would make that wall appear deeply inset. So, in a future scheme, say the wall comes forward, and the Dining exterior wall moves with it, bringing the Porch more in line with the Patio and connecting the outdoor living spaces better, which might also clean up the access to the spaces and how they interact with the circulation around furniture.

Since you are trying to stack the bathrooms, indicate where exactly the soil stack for the downstairs toilet is, because that is most likely where the new toilet wants to be. I do not see a vent penetration on the lower or upper roof to make a guess. In fact, the whole downstairs layout may provide opportunity to place the bathroom in any configuration, or by eliminating a placement because plumbing would affect the ceiling below. And, at the same time with this project, consider potentially adding a window on front to either the bedroom or bathroom to increase curb appeal of the house too.

In Jan’s last layout you could design slim wardrobes flanking the bed.

Thank you for chiming in , thinkdesignlive. I like this idea for the closet space. The plumber came last week so waiting on his quote . My contractor seems insistent on leaving plumbing toward front of house.

It's decided the OP is doing brick with stone, and brick/stone/siding will be in the only scheme as the elevation shows, there is no option otherwise. OP can only receive color palette advice.

The choices are set in packages - for each brick choice, there are 2 mortar colors, then there are 2-6 corresponding stone choices, then 3 corresponding choices for paint in a Light/Medium/Dark grouping:

1. Start by narrowing down brick to 1-3 choices.
2. Narrow down stone to 1-3 choices.
3. Find those brick + stone packages that matches your choices in #1 and #2.
4. Then have a picture of each stone to compare with brick and paint colors simultaneously.
5. With the paint colors, for each Light/Medium/Dark scheme, you have options left to right (Dark scheme varies though):

• choose left - everything is that color
• choose middle - keeps the siding the left color, changes a handful of the named items to middle color
• choose right - keeps the siding the left color, changes only a couple select items to right color

And not to make it even more complicated, but usually in a planned unit community, adjacent houses cannot be the same exact elevation and colors. So double checking you've double checked that all packages are available, and with that, that the builder is able to obtain all choices of the brick and stone for this project timeline.

#2, all brick, in that tone, definitely the two car garage. Not loving the shutters, even though they are the correct shape. Keep it simple to start. Do you have a choice of window colors? I like this look for your new home.

Where did I ask for people to lie to me or rave about my choices? I simply asked for some advice on color schemes and got a lot of unsolicited advice that was unrelated to what we are doing. If y’all are professionals, I sure hope you practice more restraint in your professional lives. Otherwise, I would highly recommend learning the art of that, it will get you much further in life and be far more meaningful than designing a pretty home.

So, do you have an answer to his question?

I did answer, heat. There is no picture of fixtures or the 'bulbs' in use. A heat sink on an A19 style would be different than a MR16 which could have fins.

My personal experience with brands doesn't matter if they are used in different fixtures and styles. I've used many LED brands from Sylvania down to Dollar Store. About 1:20 of any of them fails early (so far, it has not been 20 years since LED has been available to know if you've fully achieved it's rated lifespan).

LOL

I am proud to say that I was the only one who answered his question.

The OSB sheathing sits "below" the gutter edge because you have battens for the roof tile.

If you use a metal eave riser (a drip edge that has a raised seam for the concrete tile) it should have weep holes. You do not put sleepers on the rafters to change the slope.

Also, for the valley, the flashing does look like a tile flashing with the Z edge. It appears where battens extended over it was a closed valley, and ones that stopped short were open valleys. Choose 1 or the other.

This seems to be way out of your wheelhouse, I suggest looking at roof details for (concrete flat) tile roofs at Roof Tile Institute/Association, Western States Contractors . . . etc.

Also, at least in the pic of the 1 exposed rafter bay, there looks to be a full height birdblock which is blocking the soffit vent airflow into the attic. The blocks should be removed or cut down if they are like that in every rafter bay.

Nah, don't try and shim to get a slope to rise that 2 or 3" F up at the fascia . Remove the gutters and cut off that hack job fascia extension and lower the gutters where they should be. It was a hack job, some idiot did it, It's the dumbest thing I've seen anyone do to their roof.

Wow thanks you guys know your stuff thanks. I will look at those  details right now . Im glad i haven't put the shims yet .Man after  yalls inputs i realize i need to step up my roofing knowledge Immediately. I started reparing tile roofs a while back. Small jobs where the pigeons nested under overhangsand shat through the osb . Most time i would only need half a sheet of osb for the repair and now that im thinking about it i cant remember any of those repairs reaching the gutter . I did at least 60 repairs myself so i thought i was a top roofer lol. Went in this project overconfident but i knew something was off as it kinda stopped me im my tracks and i diverted to a home remodel .Im back to the roof tomorrow to get this going and do it the right way. I appreciate the knowledge Brothers I will keep you yall updated

I have not but would love to. that mignt help. I cannot ask this person unfortunatley nor do I want to. we want to hire someone else to modify if possible. I want to see something done to this shell of a floorplan to wow me.

I believe your roof looks the same as in an older thread. The hip roofs are the same - not a problem (as chispa elaborated). The major changes since then, besides flipping the gable for a front porch, appears to have been in the Entry Portico, and looks something like sketched in RED here:

As long as the BLUE arrows are dealt with, this is a common Florida design. It appears in the OP roof plan superimposed over the floor plan, the crosshatched areas are roof crickets against portico upper walls, but not sure, it might be open. It's all a guessing game here as it was in the floor plan thread.